What Size Solar Generator Do I Need?

Most homeowners buy the wrong size solar generator. Here is how to calculate exactly what your home needs — critical loads, surge watts, battery sizing, and real numbers before you spend a dollar.

What Size Solar Generator Do I Need? — Power and Energy

Last Updated: June 17, 2026

What Size Solar Generator Do I Need? Getting It Right.

The right size solar generator isn't the most powerful one — it's the one matched to your actual loads. Most homeowners get this wrong because they skip the load calculation. A refrigerator needs 150 watts running but 1,000 watts to start. A well pump needs 750 watts running but 3,000 to start. Buy for the surge, not the steady state, and you'll have a system that works when you need it.

▶ TL;DR — Read This First (click to expand)

This guide is for the homeowner — the rancher with a well, the father with a chest freezer full of a season's worth of meat, the veteran who refuses to guess — who needs real numbers before spending a dollar on backup power. The answer to "what size solar generator do I need" is not a single number. It's the result of a four-step load calculation: identify your critical loads, find the surge watts, calculate daily energy use, and add a buffer for bad days. Skip any step and you'll buy the wrong system. The Solar Calculator at the bottom of this page does the math for you.

Does this sound familiar?

You spent real money on a solar generator. The next storm hit. You plugged in the well pump. Nothing happened. Or the system ran for six hours and died. Or the battery bank couldn't handle the startup surge and tripped the inverter. You're not alone. Undersized systems are the most common and most expensive mistake in home backup power. This guide exists so you don't make it.

▶ Table of Contents (click to expand)

Key numbers every homeowner needs to know:
  • Refrigerator: 100–300W running | 600–1,200W surge
  • Chest freezer: 100–250W running | 500–1,000W surge
  • Well pump: 750–2,500W running | 2–5× surge at startup
  • CPAP machine: 30–90W running | minimal surge
  • FEMA minimum self-sufficiency: 72 hours (Ready.gov)

Most People Start With the Wrong Question

Most buyers start by asking: "What's the best solar generator?"

That's not the first question.

The first question is: "What am I trying to keep running?"

Every home is different. Some homeowners only need phones, internet, and a refrigerator. Others need well pumps, chest freezers, medical equipment, and home office equipment.

The answer determines the size of system you need.

Get this wrong and you'll own an expensive paperweight.

As I explain in the dependency article: the outage isn't the problem. The dependency is. Map your dependencies first. Then size the system that covers them.

Step 1 — Identify Your Critical Loads

Before you buy anything, list the systems your family cannot live without for 72 hours.

For most rural homeowners, that list looks like this:

ApplianceRunning WattsSurge Watts
Refrigerator100–300W600–1,200W
Chest freezer100–250W500–1,000W
Well pump (½ HP)750W2,000–3,000W
Well pump (1 HP)1,500W4,500–6,000W
CPAP machine30–90WMinimal
Internet router10–25WMinimal
LED lighting5–15W per bulbMinimal
Phone charging5–20WMinimal
Sump pump800–1,200W2,000–3,600W

The well pump column is where most people get surprised. A 1 HP well pump drawing 1,500 watts running requires 4,500–6,000 watts at startup. That surge demand determines your minimum inverter size — not the running load.

Start with the solar basics guide if you're not familiar with how inverters, batteries, and panels work together. Understanding the components makes the sizing math much clearer.

Step 2 — Running Watts vs Surge Watts

Every appliance has two power requirements.

Running watts — the electricity needed during normal operation.

Surge watts — the temporary spike required during startup.

This distinction is the most common sizing mistake in home backup power.

A refrigerator may only use 150 watts running. But it briefly requires 1,000 watts to start the compressor. If your solar generator's inverter can't deliver 1,000 watts at startup, the refrigerator won't start — even with a full battery.

The rule: size your inverter for the largest surge load, not the largest running load.

If your well pump surges to 4,500 watts, you need a pure sine wave inverter rated for at least 5,000 watts. No exceptions.

"Buy once, cry once. Cheap components mean cold nights and spoiled food."

— Wattson | US Solar Institute Trained | Over a decade off-grid

Step 3 — Calculate Daily Energy Use

Now calculate how much energy your critical loads consume in a day.

Example household — basic resilience:

ApplianceWattsHours/DayDaily Wh
Refrigerator150W8 hrs1,200 Wh
Internet router15W24 hrs360 Wh
LED lighting (4 bulbs)40W5 hrs200 Wh
Phone charging15W3 hrs45 Wh
Total1,805 Wh

A system with 2,000 Wh of usable battery storage covers this load for one day.

Example household — full resilience:

ApplianceWattsHours/DayDaily Wh
Refrigerator150W8 hrs1,200 Wh
Chest freezer150W8 hrs1,200 Wh
Well pump750W2 hrs1,500 Wh
CPAP machine60W8 hrs480 Wh
Internet router15W24 hrs360 Wh
LED lighting60W5 hrs300 Wh
Total5,040 Wh

This household needs at least 5,000 Wh of usable battery capacity per day — plus a buffer for cloudy days and unexpected loads.


Run the Numbers for Your Home

The Solar Calculator tells you panel count, battery bank size, inverter capacity, and cost range based on your actual loads. Five minutes. Real numbers.

GET THE FREE SOLAR CALCULATOR →

✅ US Solar Institute Trained · Over a decade off-grid · No inventory to move


Step 4 — Plan for the Real Emergency

Most homeowners size for ideal conditions.

Emergencies are not ideal.

Cloud cover reduces solar charging. Multi-day outages increase total consumption. Unexpected loads appear. Temperatures drop and appliances run harder.

The U.S. Department of Energy reports that average outage duration has increased significantly as extreme weather events intensify. (Source: DOE Electric Power Annual 2024)

The buffer rule: Add 25–50% to your calculated daily energy need.

If your loads total 5,000 Wh per day, size your battery bank for 6,500–7,500 Wh usable capacity.

Size your solar array to recharge that bank in 4–6 peak sun hours.

This is exactly what the system design guide walks through — full sizing methodology with worked examples.

Small, Medium, Large — Which System Fits

Small Backup (500–2,000 Wh)

Best for: Phones, laptops, router, LED lights, CPAP machine

Does not cover: Refrigerator, freezer, well pump

Who it's for: Apartment dwellers, short-term outages, communications priority

Medium Backup (2,000–5,000 Wh)

Best for: Refrigerator, freezer, communications, medical equipment

Does not cover: Well pump, air conditioning, extended outages

Who it's for: Suburban homeowners, 2–3 day outage resilience

Large Backup (5,000–15,000 Wh)

Best for: Well pump, multiple appliances, home office, extended outages

Covers: Most rural homestead critical loads for 1–3 days

Who it's for: Rural homeowners, well-dependent properties, families with medical equipment

Whole Home Backup (15,000–40,000+ Wh)

Best for: Large homes, air conditioning, multiple critical circuits, 7+ day autonomy

Who it's for: Full off-grid or grid-optional homeowners

The cost and ROI guide breaks down what each tier actually costs with real numbers and honest payback timelines.

"The system that runs clean fifteen years from now is the one that gets checked — and sized right the first time."

— Wattson | US Solar Institute Trained | Over a decade off-grid

The Most Expensive Mistake

The biggest mistake isn't buying too much system.

It's buying too little.

An undersized system creates a false sense of security. It works right up until the moment you need it. Then you discover the problem during the outage — the worst possible time to learn.

I made a similar mistake early on. The system looked fine on paper. It failed when the loads hit. Not because the equipment was bad. Because the sizing was wrong.

That's why I flew to Florida and trained at the US Solar Institute. Not because solar is complicated. Because getting the math wrong costs more than getting the education right.

If you want to understand how to avoid the contractor and sizing traps that cost most homeowners thousands, start with the solar basics guide.


Calculate My System Size

Enter your critical loads. Get panel count, battery bank size, and inverter capacity. No guesswork. No contractor needed to get the first number.

CALCULATE MY SYSTEM SIZE →

▶ Frequently Asked Questions (click to expand)

What is the difference between running watts and surge watts?

Running watts are the continuous power an appliance needs during normal operation. Surge watts are the brief spike required at startup — typically 2–5 times the running load. A refrigerator running at 150W may surge to 1,000W when the compressor kicks on. Your inverter must handle the surge or the appliance won't start. Always size the inverter for the highest surge load on your critical list.

How many watts do I need to run a well pump on solar?

It depends on pump size. A ½ HP well pump draws approximately 750W running and 2,000–3,000W at startup. A 1 HP pump draws 1,500W running and 4,500–6,000W at startup. You need a pure sine wave inverter rated above the surge watt requirement. The water systems guide covers well pump power requirements in detail, including pressure tank sizing and hand pump backup options.

What size battery bank do I need for a 3-day outage?

Multiply your daily load by 3, then add 25% buffer. If your critical loads total 3,000 Wh per day, you need 3,000 × 3 × 1.25 = 11,250 Wh of usable battery capacity. LiFePO4 batteries are rated at 80–100% depth of discharge, meaning a 12,000 Wh bank gives you approximately 9,600–12,000 Wh usable. Lead-acid batteries should only be discharged to 50%, so double the bank size for equivalent capacity.

Can a portable solar generator run a refrigerator?

Yes — if it's sized correctly. Most portable solar generators in the 1,000–2,000 Wh range can run a standard refrigerator through a normal day. The critical requirement is surge capacity: the inverter must handle 600–1,200W at startup. Check the generator's peak watt rating, not just its continuous rating. Units rated at 1,000W continuous with 2,000W peak will handle most refrigerators.

What is the difference between a solar generator and a battery backup system?

A solar generator is an all-in-one portable unit combining battery, inverter, and charge controller in one box. They're convenient but limited in scalability — most top out at 3,000–5,000 Wh. A battery backup system is a custom-built setup with separate battery bank, inverter, charge controller, and solar array. It scales to any size and is typically more cost-effective for whole-home applications. The system design guide explains when each approach makes sense.

How many solar panels do I need to recharge a 5,000 Wh battery bank?

Roughly 1,500–2,000W of solar panels in most U.S. locations. With 5–6 peak sun hours per day, a 1,500W array generates 7,500–9,000 Wh — enough to recharge a 5,000 Wh bank and cover daily consumption. In cloudy climates or winter months, plan for fewer peak sun hours and size accordingly. The Solar Calculator accounts for your location's solar resource automatically.

Is LiFePO4 or lead-acid better for a solar generator?

LiFePO4 is better in almost every metric for solar backup applications. LiFePO4 delivers 4,000–6,000 charge cycles versus 1,200–1,500 for lead-acid. It discharges to 80–100% depth of discharge versus 50% for lead-acid. It's lighter, charges faster, and performs better in both heat and cold. The upfront cost is higher but the 10-year total cost of ownership is typically lower. For any system expected to last a decade, LiFePO4 is the correct choice.

What happens if my solar generator is undersized?

Three common failure modes. First: the inverter trips on surge demand and the appliance doesn't start. Second: the battery depletes faster than the solar array can recharge it, leaving you without power after one day. Third: the system handles normal conditions but fails under the actual emergency load — which is always higher than the normal load. An undersized system creates false confidence. That's more dangerous than having no system.

Do I need a whole-home generator or just a solar backup?

It depends on your load profile and outage duration expectations. For outages under 3–5 days, a properly sized solar backup handles most critical loads without fuel dependency. For extended outages (7+ days) or loads that solar can't economically support (central air conditioning in summer heat), a dual-fuel generator provides a cost-effective complement. Most rural homeowners use both: solar for daily resilience, generator as a fuel-based backup for extended events.

Where do I start if I've never done a load calculation before?

Start with the Solar Calculator. It walks you through the critical load identification process step by step and outputs a system size recommendation. If you want to understand the methodology first, the solar basics guide explains how panels, batteries, inverters, and charge controllers work together before you size anything. Know the system before you buy the components.


Final Thought

The best solar generator isn't the most expensive one.

It's the one matched to your actual loads — sized for the worst day you'll face, not the average day you hope for.

Get the math right first.

List the critical loads. Find the surge watts. Calculate daily energy. Add the buffer.

Everything else becomes much easier.

The Solar Calculator does this math in five minutes. Use it before you spend a dollar.

"Quality isn't expensive. Replacement is expensive."

— Wattson | US Solar Institute Trained | Over a decade off-grid

Before the next outage finds your gaps:

The rancher in East Texas who watched his well pump fail during the ice storm knows this feeling. The father in Tennessee who lost a chest freezer full of deer meat knows it too. The veteran who built his forever home and assumed the grid would cooperate — he learned the hard way. You don't need to. Map your loads. Size your system. Build what actually protects your family.

Related Resources
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Most off-grid power mistakes happen before the panels arrive.

Wrong battery chemistry. Undersized inverter. Misread load profile. The expensive mistakes are made in the planning phase, not the install phase. Get the basics right first.

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